After a two-day drive to arrive, and with only a vague memory of the beauty of the place, any worries quickly disappeared. The views across olive-tree-terraced hills, down to the varied blues of the Mediterranean, are simply spectacular.
Settling into the Hills of Varigotti
We were lucky to have found a charming little cottage nestled into the hills above Varigotti. Even luckier was the presence of a small wood-fired furnace: the area is actually cold and windy in January. When night falls, or when the sun hides behind clouds, the air is humid and temperatures drop. Oddly, for me, it feels colder than Northern Europe even though the temperature has never dropped below three degrees.
The big difference, however, is the sun. And the sun comes out a lot. In the first seven days we had more sun than I can remember in a long time. And when the sun comes out, it feels like a warm spring day.
Work and Leisure Balance in Varigotti
This isn’t a holiday per se. Our routine had to quickly take shape. My husband is working during our stay and needs a proper desk space and reliable internet. Adding to the first positive impressions is that Wi-Fi is available, strong, and fast. From a work perspective, there are no issues so far.
On my side, I’m not working at the moment. That leaves me with the two dogs and practicalities of daily life. The first priority is figuring out how to walk a generally obedient Golden Retriever and a high-energy, sometimes, but not often, obedient English Setter.
Exploring the Trails of Varigotti
Fortunately, one of the things we liked about the area is that the hills are sprinkled with hiking and mountain-biking trails. The dogs and I now have a plethora of paths to explore. The tracks are not easy: they go up and down and in and out of the hills. In small breaks along the way, you catch glimpses of the surrounding hills and the coastline beyond.
You also begin to notice that, nestled into these hills, we are not alone. There are many houses scattered around the area, with more being built and renovated as you go.
Shopping Adventures in Finale Ligure
Walking, however, is one thing. Driving is another.
The roads here are not easy at all; it feels more like rally driving than anything else. Knowing we also needed more food and basic household supplies, a trip to the supermarket became unavoidable. With some trepidation, I decided it had to be done.
The sense of triumph on reaching the coast was real. Winding down the hillside, meeting cars coming the other way up, and navigating hairpin turns all ended in success. The car was intact, no new scratches were added, and no ambulance services were required 🙂
In this area, the only ‘major’ supermarket is in Finale Ligure, unless you want to make a 30-minute drive into the larger urban area of Savona. With a strong preference for calm and less urban development, I avoid Savona. Finale Ligure, on the other hand, is perfect for standard shopping needs.
Varigotti itself has a small, old, and rather expensive ‘alimentari’ though its opening hours still elude me. This means most shopping so far happens in Finale Ligure. So, a simple weekly shop will now take just above 2 hours, door to door, with cupboards fully replenished.
Embracing the Rhythm of Mountain Living
For now, we’re settling into the rhythm of mountain living. The first rain is sprinkling down as I write, and I’m wondering whether the car will manage the wet roads for a nighttime drive to the coast for pizza. Next up will be our first market mornings in Noli and Varigotti.
