The first update is that the car can make it out of the hillside roads when they’re wet. However, it now also has its first Ligurian scrape — courtesy of my husband’s driving rather than mine. Lesson learned: maybe it’s best to stay up in the mountains when it’s raining. Then again, the pizzeria we found in Finale Ligure does exceptionally good pizzas at exceptionally good prices, so perhaps it was worth it.
Our first Saturday turned into a fascinating exploration.
We decided to head down to Finalborgo as a pit stop on our way to do the weekly shopping in Finale Ligure. Finalborgo immediately caught our attention — you see signs all along the coast declaring it “one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.” Heading inland from Finale, you arrive at an old medieval town of castles, fortresses, cobbled alleyways, and an enchanting church.
So far, it has been the busiest place we’ve visited. Alongside charming cafés, restaurants, and small craft shops, there is a surprising number of highly specialised mountaineering stores. The town clearly caters to mountain bikers, climbers, and outdoor enthusiasts. Despite the activity, it still felt local — Italian tourists, locals going about their day, and once again, only Italian heard and spoken.
We were lucky to find parking just outside the medieval walls (I suspect we wouldn’t be so lucky in summer). After exploring Finalborgo, we headed back to the coast for a coffee before the clouds rolled into the bay. The promenade in Finale Ligure is mostly closed this time of year, but a few cafés and restaurants do open their doors. Calm and relaxed, with people out for their morning run, dogs enjoying their walk on the beach and greeting their compatriots, we found an idyllic spot with views both east and west, framed by the familiar palm trees.
As soon as the sun disappeared behind the clouds, the cold wind returned, and we retreated back to the car. Interestingly, parking for 30 minutes in Finale Ligure nearly cost the same as two coffees.
By now, we’re becoming well acquainted with the local supermarket — but there was one more surprise for me today: the sheer number of different pestos available. As a massive pesto lover, this felt like pure bliss.
Back up the hill at our cottage, two very happy dogs were waiting for their walk. This time, the whole family geared up for a small hike around the house. Later, tired but curious, we ventured back down again to see what Noli is like on a Saturday evening in January.
It felt as though the town was closing for the day. Only a few cafés and bars were open, but they were warm and welcoming. Sadly, we also learned that fishing in Noli seems to be a dying trade. I had read that local fishermen sell their daily catch each morning on the promenade — and the setup is still there, with boats and fish stalls in place — but now only a few fishermen go out, and it’s no longer a daily event. A local woman told us that younger generations aren’t following the tradition, choosing other opportunities instead.
Back home again, the whole family was exhausted. But it was a mesmerising first Saturday — especially when you consider that this could become a usual routine: coffee by the sea, a stroll through a medieval town, a supermarket stop, and a hike in the hills.
